rilLING DIRECTIONS, 



TO ACCOMPANV 



MAJOR J. D. GRAHAM'S CHART 



CAPE COD HAEBOE. 



WITH EXTRACTS FROIVI HTS REPORT ON THE TIDES, 
SOUNDINGS, CURRENTS, (Sec. 



EDITED BY 

I. W. p. LEWIS, 



civil. ENGINEER. 



BOSTON: 

PUBLISHED BY THE BOSTON MARINE INSURANCE OFFICES. 

1841. 



*. tf. DICKINSON, PBlNTBa. 



I 



SAILING DIRECTIONS, 



TO ACCOSIPANY 



MAJOR J. D. GRAHAM'S CHART 



CAPE COD HAEBOE. 

WITH EXTRACTS FROM HIS REPORT ON THE TIDES, 
SOUNDINGS, CURRENTS, &c. 



EDITED Bt 

I. W. p. lEWIS, 

CIVIL ENGINEER. 



BOSTON: 

PUBLISHED BY THE BOSTON MARINE INSURANCE OFFICES. 



1841. 



Ol 



jLf-^ 



ADVERTISEMENT. 

The necessity of a liarhor of rofiigr for sliippiiif: diirinjj llic prevalence 
of the violent north-east storms that ravage our roast, has always been se- 
verely fdt, while tlie dreadful wrecks that anmiaily occur, are sullicieiitly 
painful evidence that one of the finest haviMis on the Atlantic sea-hoard is 
comparatively iniknown, or known only to he feareil hy the majority of 
naviijalops. Among all the ports and harhors in this country, there is 
scarcely one so easy of access in all weathers, so nohly capacious, or that 
aft'ords such complete shelter and secure anchorage for vessels of every 
class, ns Cape Cod, or, as it is sometimes called, I'rovincctown Harbor. 
During our wars with Great JJritain, the enemy, fully aware of its excel- 
lence as a rendezvous of easy ingress and egress, and as aflbrdiug them 
the means of a watering i)lace for their fleets, kept j)ossepsion of it for a 
long time; in fact, it might he considered their head-quarters on this coast. 

The approach to Cape Cod, jiarticularly in the winter season, is almost 
disheartening, tiom the forbidding asjject of its barren sands, the long 
ranges of breakers, and the surf thundering on the beach — but notwith- 
standing this unpromising ap|)earance, the peculiar form of the coast is 
such, that once fairly within the harbor, no seaman would ask for a better 
anchorage, while abundance of |)ure water, and supplies of every descrip- 
tion may be obtained on shore at Provincetow'n. 

Personal acquaintance with the excellences of this harbor, and some 
exjiericnce in the dangerous navigation of the vicinity, have induced the 
writer to propose to the Jioston 3Iarine Insurance Companies the reduc- 
tion to a nautical form, and the ])ublicatioii of Major J. D. Graham's ad- 
mirable Survey of the Extremity of Cape Cod, (including the harl)or and 
adjacent shores of Provincctown and Truro,) which pro|)()sition they have 
met in the most liberal maimer, being convinced that the knowledge of 
thissiu'vey, extended and dilfused amongst all classes of navigators, might 
be the means of saving valuable lives and property from the almost cer- 
tain destruction attending a shipwreck on this portion of our coast. 

Doubtless, many vessels lost in Jioston 15ay, might have bc+'n saved by 
running for Ca|)e Cod Harbor or Herring Cove, if seamen had felt that 
entire confidence, which can be derived only from previous knowledge of 
the coast, or from a chart, showing all the approaches in the tiiost distinct 
manner. 

Such a chart is now presented to the nautical world, with the utmost 
confidence in its accuracy, resulting from liie high re|)utation of its author 
in conducting surveys of this character, and from the j>ersonal interest he 
has taken in the present |)ublication, which is here gratefully acknowledged. 
If it shoulrl be the means of saving one fellow-creature from the dangers 
of shij)wreck, the labors of the writer would be more than repaid. 

I. W. P. LEWIS. 

Boston, December, 1841. 






POINTS 


or DEPARTURE. 








Nortli latitude. 


West longitude. 


In time. 


Truro light-house, or Highlands 
Race Point light-house 
Long Point light-house 
Universalist church steeple of) 
Provincetown ^ 


42" 2' 19" 
42 3 33.G 
42 1 55 

42 2 46.4 


70o 4' 22.5" 
70 15 17.3 
70 10 50 

70 12 7.9 


4h. 40m 
4 41 
4 40 

4 40 


17.810s. 

1.1 
43 

43.5 



Blunt's Coast Pilot contains full and ample direc- 
tions for entering Cape Cod Harbor, but in case any 
one should be without that valuable work, we subjoin 
the following 

SAILING DIRECTIONS. 

With a good breeze from the westward, or a leading 
wind, you may approach Cape Cod, off the Highland 
Light, as near as two miles, and if you wish to take 
advantage of the tide, you may run the shore along, 
preserving the same offing, until you draw up with 
Race Point Light, when, if bound into Cape Cod Har- 
bor, you may pass this Light within one half mile. 

TO ENTER CAFE COD HARBOR. 

Bring Race Point Light to bear east, distant one half 
of a mile, then run S. S. E. three and a half miles, 
which will clear Wood End Bar, and open Long Point 
Light, bearing N. E. by E. half E. Haul up east, and 
run two miles ; then N. E., until abreast of Long Point 
Light, which you will round at a distance of not less 
than one third of a mile, until you head up W. N. W., 
when you enter the harbor on that course, or anything 
to the northward of it, and anchor in from eight to nine 
fathoms, with Long Point Light bearing from S. E. to 
South. 

If caught in Boston Bay, with an easterly storm, 
your safest course is to run for Race Point Light, and 
if you can bring it to bear E. N. E., you then steer E. 
S. E., and anchor in Herring Cove, in not less than 
three nor more than seven fathoms water, as the bottom 
is steep, and you may drag off, if in deep water. If 



you fail to make a harbor at Herring Cove, you must 
then run for Cape Cod Harbor, and steer as before 
directed. 

NOTICE, 

1 . That all the soundings on this chart are laid down 
in feet, at mean low water. 

2. That all the courses or bearings named in the 
sailing directions, arc magnetic or compass bearings. 

3. That the magnetic variation of the compass was 
nine degrees twenty minutes west, at the date of the 
survey. 

4. That the time of high water at full and change of 
the moon, is eleven hours twenty minutes; and the 
mean rise of the tides is nine feet. 

5. That Truro, Cape Cod, or Highland Light, as it 
is variously called, is di fixed light of the first magnitude, 
standing at an elevation of one hundred and sixty-seven 
feet above mean low water ; and visible in clear weath- 
er distinctly, as far as the curvature of the earth will 
admit, say eighteen miles, when the observer is placed 
thirteen feet above the level of the sea. When the 
barometer ranges very high, and the atmosphere is 
clear, this light can be seen thirty miles. 

6. That Race Point Light is a revolving hght, with 
its eclipses occurring about every minute and a half. 
This is a very feeble light, and not readily distinguished 
when there are many fishermen in Herring Cove, as 
they all show lights. Its elevation is thirty-four feet 
above mean low water; and limit of visibility, eight miles. 
To distinguish this from Boston Light, (which is a re- 
volving light of the first magnitude,) tlie lantern is 



screened on one side, so that you do not open tlic li£r)it 
until it bears S. S. AV. Ironi you. It may be approached 
safely within one third of a mile. 

7. Long Point Light is a fixed harbor Jiirht ; its ele- 
vation thirty-four feet above mean low water, and its 
limit of visibility eight nnles in clear weather. It stands 
on a low, narrow spit of sand, that reaches out five 
hundred and twenty yards to the eastward of the light, 
forming a bar steep to. Whh the light bearing due 
west quarter of a mile distant, you will have five" fath- 
oms on this bar, and it is not prudent to approach it 
any nearer. 

If beating into Cape Cod Harbor, stand to the east- 
ward until you get four fathoms — but to the westward 
tack in eight fathoms, if within Long Point, as it shoals 
very abruptly from that depth to the beach. 

The following remarks upon the tides, soundinirs, 
and currents of Cape Cod Harbor and its adjace'nt 
coasts, are extracted from the Report of Major J. D. 
Graham, to the Chief Engineer of the Topogra])hical 
Bureau, Col. J. J. Abert, upon the completion of the 
survey and original chart.* 

OBSERVATZOKS UPON THE TIDES. 

In order to obtain as correct information as practi- 
cable, in relation to the flow of the tides, and the influ- 
ence of the winds upon them, a series of observations 

* A Report upon the I\Iilitary and Hydrograi)l)ical Chart of the Ex- 
tremity of Cape Cod, inchjding the Townships of I'rovincetown and 
Truro, with their Sea-coast and Ship Harbor; projected from Surveys 
executed during portions of the years 1833, 1834, and 1835, under the 
direction of James D. Graham, Major U. S. Topographical Engineers. 



~f'^- 



was commenced at Provincetown, Cape Cod Harbor, 
on the 1st day of July, 1833, and continued without in- 
termission until the 27th of January, 1834, during which 
period, the time and height, as measured by a perma- 
nent tide-staff, of every high and every low tide, were 
carefully registered, excepting only a very few casual 
omissions. All the high tides and some of the low tides 
were also registered, from the last-mentioned date to 
the 2d of March following. Similar registers were kept 
of the high and low tides at the same place, between 
the 26th of August and the 21st of September, 1834; 
also, between the 28th of May and the 27th of July, 
1835. In this manner were obtained the times and 
the heights of the surface of the sea, for 634 high tides 
and 569 low tides within the harbor, accompanied by 
simultaneous remarks upon the direction and strength 
of the winds, the weather, &c. A similar series of ob- 
servations was made at Race Point, between the 11th 
of August and the 30th of September, 1833, and from 
the 3d to the 23d of September, 1834, embracing 135 
high tides and 123 low tides. 

The annexed tables, P and Q, will show the general 
results of all the observations upon the tides, both in the 
harbor and at Race Point. It will be seen by these 
tables that the mean flow of the tide at each of these 
places is 9.26 feet. A sufficient number of observa- 
tions was not made to obtain with accuracy the mean 
flow of spring tides at Race Point, but in the harbor it 
was ascertained to be 13.87 feet. 

It is believed by us that there is no considerable dif- 
ference in the flow of the tide on the coast anywhere 



between Truro Light-house and Cape Cod Harbor, 
except what may casually result from the influence ol 
the winds, notwithstanding a diflfcrent impression has 
prevailed with many persons in this section of country 
upon this subject. 

TABLE p. 

A RECAPITULATION, allowing the (low of the liiloB nt Provincetowk HiRBon, Capb 
Cod, Massachl'setts, aa deducod rrom 034 registered high tides and 5r/.l registered low lidoB, 
measured by apernnanent tide-staff, graduated into feet and decimals of feet, during the respec- 
tive periods herein stated, between the 1st July, 1833, and the 27th July, 1635. 



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10 

The soundings have boon multiplied so as to show 
every feature as regards both the depth and the nature 
of the bottom, throughout the harbor: out in a southeast 
and east direction from its entrance, for a distance of 
three to four miles, reaching to twelve and fifteen fath- 
oms ; along the interior coast between Long Point and 
Race Point, as far out as seventeen, twenty, and twen- 
ty-five fathoms ; and thence along the Atlantic Coast, 
until Cape Cod Light was brought to bear W. S. W. 
per compass, in twelve and a half fathoms at low water, 
the distance from shore being then one and one third 
mile. 

From Race Point until E. N. E. of the eminence on 
the land, known by the name of High Cedar Island, 
the soundings have been extended out to thirty, twenty- 
five, and twenty fathoms, attaining here a distance of 
two and two thirds miles from the shore. From this 
point to the eastward the depth diminishes materially, 
and it was considered unnecessary to carry the sound- 
ings out to the last mentioned depth any farther upon 
the coast. They were therefore limited to fourteen 
and twelve and a half fathoms, until E. N. E. of Cape 
Cod Light, where the survey terminated. 

Vessels navigating this part of the coast may derive 
much aid in regulating their distance from the shore, 
by observing frequently the nature and color of the 
sand at bottom, as well as the depth. This will appear 
by reference to the remarks upon the chart. The 
deep water runs so close to the extremity of Race 
Point, that we have at low water, twenty fathoms, 
when within two hundred yards of the low water mark. 



11 

the liglit bearing due east. If you extend your distance 
farther out from the Point, you will immediately get 
into twenty-nine or thirty fathoms. Immediately after 
turning this Point, however, the chain of shoals com- 
mences, which extends in a direction nearly parallel 
with the shore as far eastward as the limits of this sur- 
vey. This shoal has upon it in some places only nine, 
ten, and twelve feet, at ordinary low water, and makes 
very heavy breakers with the wind on shore, or with 
the heavings of the sea after a gale. It is the most 
dangerous obstacle for vessels navigating this part of 
the coast, if unacquainted with its position, and has 
even recently been the scene of many a wreck, attend- 
ed generally with the loss of lives and property. 

The channel which extends between it and the shore, 
carrying two, three, four and a half fathoms at different 
points at low water, tends to increase the danger if 
vessels get upon it with the wind on shore, for should 
they beat over it, the damage is so great that they 
most generally sink. It is, however, easily avoided in 
a N. E. wind, if attention be paid to the chart and to 
the lead. From Cape Cod Light to opposite High 
Cedar Island, a distance of four miles, its course is N. 
W. half N. To N. W. half W., and its distance from the 
shore, reckoning out to five fathoms at ordinary low 
water, is from nine hundred to thirteen hundred yards. 
From thence until opposite the Peaked Hill, a distance 
of five and a quarter miles, its direction is N. W. by W. 
half W. to W. by N., and its distance from shore, reck- 
oning out to the same depth, is from thirteen hundred 
to fifteen hundred yards. From thence to Race Point, 



12 

a distance of two and a half miles, the shoal curves 

with the shore, and diminishes gradually in width until 

it terminates near the Point. Vessels unacquainted 

with the coast should always keep well outside this 

shoal, for although fishing vessels and other small craft 

are in the habit of making use of the channel which 

lies between it and the shore, in fair weather, yet it 

carries through only sixteen feet at low water opposite 

Cape Cod Light — it is, moreover, subject somewhat 

to change by the action of the sea in heavy gales of 

wind. Herring Cove, formed by a curve in the shore, 

between Race Point and the commencement of the 

Shank Painter Bar, aflbrds good shelter in three to six 

or eight fathoms, with the wind from N. E. to E. S. E. 

Cape Cod Harbor may, however, be gained with an E. 

or N. E. wind, with the flood tide, taking good care 

not to stand in on the larboard nearer shore than ei^ht 

or ten fathoms, as the bars will then be close aboard. 

From Race Point to the outer line of Shank Painter 

Bar, a distance of two miles, and from thence to the 

most projecting point of Wood End Bar, a distance of 

one and one t id mile, the direction of the channel is 

very straight, on a course of S. E. by S. half S., which 

will clear five fathoms at low water, and give as much 

as twenty, twenty-five, and thirty fathoms, immediately 

on the starboard. From Wood End Bar to Long 

Point the channel curves round from S. E. by E. three 

quarters E. to N. E. by E. 

After clearing Wood End Bar you have deep water 
close in to the shore, until you come to the small bar 
that lies off' Long Point, the extremity of which would 



13 

be touched in five fathoms at low water, when Long 
Point Light bears due west distant five hundred and 
twenty yards, and Cape Cod Light bearing E. half S., 
and distant five miles and four hundred and seventy yards. 
The distance from Wood End Bar to Long Point Bar 
is two miles and three quarters, and the whole distance 
between Race Point and the end of Long Point Bar, 
measured clear of five fathoms at low water, is six 
miles and one hundred and forty yards. 

THE CURRENTS. 

Within the harbor there is but little current, except 
immediately off" and within Long Point, where it runs 
strong at mid-tide, both at ebb and flood ; there is also 
a considerable current setting out of East Harbor, at 
the ebb, owing to the accumulation of water in that 
harbor, as it is called, and in the creek. This is met 
by the next flood before being entirely discharged. 
Off* the flats upon the Truro shore the current never 
exceeds a mile and a half per hour. Between Long 
Point and Race Point, and from thence down the coast 
towards Cape Cod Light, a very strong current sets at 
ebb and flood, in the direction indicated by the line of 
deepest soundings. Its velocity may be stated at mid- 
tide to be from three to four miles per hour, according 
to the quarter and declination of the moon. Although 
its direction is generally parallel with the shore, yet it 
is somewhat varied by that of the prevailing winds. 
These remarks upon the velocity of the current are not 
the results of actual experiments with the log, but are 
derived from general observation, while engaged upon 



14 



this part of" the coast ; they arc not therefore entered 
upon the chart. It was our design to liavc ascertained 
correctly their direction and strength tliroughout the 
extent of coast embraced by this survey, but the time 
and means allotted for its completion did not admit of 
our accomplishing this desirable object. It is hoped 
that a future occasion may admit of its yet being done. 
The width and freedom from obstruction of every 
kind at the entrance of Cape Cod Harbor, and the 
extent of room upon the Bay side, make it accessible 
to vessels of the largest class in almost all winds. This 
advantage, its capacity, depth of water, excellent an- 
chorage, and the complete shelter it affords from all 
winds, combine to render it one of the most valuable 
ship harbors upon our coast. It is the only harbor in 
Cape Cod Bay which it would be altogether safe for 
vessels of large draught to run for in an easterly gale, 
accompanied by dark weather, such as a dense fog or 
snow storm, so prevalent upon tliis coast. 

I.ATITUBI: .A.N-D I.OITGITUDE OF THE I.IGHTHOUSES. 

Assuming the position of Cape Cod Light-house, as 
stated by Mr. Payne, to be 42" 2' 19'^ Nordi latitude, 
and 70" 4^ 22.5", or 4h. 40m. 17ls. West longitude 
from Greenwich, the following points were deduced 
therefrom by triangulation, viz. : 



Race I'oiiit light-house 
Long Point light-house 
Universalist ('hurch stppple 



Nott 


li latitude. 


420 
42 
42 


3' Sd.G 

1 55 

2 46.4 



Lonsituil!! west 
of Greuiuvicli. 

70" 15' 17.3" 
70 10 50 
70 12 7.9 



III time. 

"4h~irm. 1.1 OaT 
4 40 43 

4 40 48.5 



16 

The following are the heights of some of the most 
conspicuous points upon the land, as viewed by vessels 
approaching the Atlantic coast, and in entering the 
Harbor. The figures placed upon the eminences and 
other points upon the land, indicate their elevation in 
feet and decimals of feet, as determined by the use of 
the levelhng instrument, above the plane of mean low 
water, derived from 569 registered low tides, by a per- 
manent tide-staff within the Harbor. 

Feet. 

The base of Cape Cod light-house - - 1^2 
The Clay pounds, (banks of clay, so called, 

near that light-house) - - - 130 

Hick's hill ------ 89 

High head - - - - - 75 to 79 

High Cedar island, (so called, from appear- 
ing Hke an island, when approaching it 

by sea) ------ 80 

Mount Ararat, (Sept. 1835, — diminishing by 

the effect of winds) - - - 1 00 > 

Mount Gilboa 106 

Oak head ------ 104 

Trip's Fun hill - - -. - - 102 

Negro head ------ 88 

The Peaked hills - - - - 40 to 53 

The northern peak - 73.5 

The southern peak - 78 

Creek Round hill 84.3 

Telegraph hill ----- 98 

High hill - 100 

Gifford'shill ------ 75 



The Snake hills 



16 

Miller's hill 89 

Snow's hill 77 

If nine and a quarter feet be deducted from the 

above heights, the remainders will be their elevation 
above the plane of mean high water. 

Ao/c. — Tlic times of mean high water at Race Point, and within Cape 
Cod Harbor, were determined by tiie result of I\Iajor Graham's observa- 
tions to be simultaneous, although it has hitherto been supj)osed by the 
inhabitants of the Cape that the tide reached its greatest altitude much 
earlier at Race Point and the outside of the Cape than within the llar- 

bo^. — Ed. 

* 



